• Featured on Ed.02
  • SUMMER 2021

Be yourself in Florence

Florence has a long history of equality and civil rights. A pioneer in the fight against discrimination since 1853 when Grand Duke Leopold II decriminalized homosexuality, today’s city welcomes all travellers in a proud continuum of openness.

This easy embrace dates all the way back to the Renaissance as a time of expressive freedom for artists believed to be gay, such as the unmarried Michelangelo Buonarroti and Leonardo da Vinci. The close “friendship” between philosopher Marsilio Ficino and poet Giovanni Cavalcanti was highlighted in letters exchanged between the couple. It wasn’t always plain sailing, of course, and several Renaissance artists were accused of sodomy, most famously sculptor Benvenuto Cellini, who was forced to pay sizeable fines, often in the form of sacks of flour. 

While it’s practically impossible to establish the sexual orientation of past figures, championing Tuscany’s, and more specifically Florence’s liberal history, is certainly merited. Grand Duke of Tuscany, Leopoldo I was the first to decriminalize homosexuality in 1853. Indeed, three of the Medici dynasty, Pope Leo X, Ferdinand II, and Giovanni Gastone, were almost certainly gay or bisexual, and the ruling family generally turned a blind eye to their citizens’ sexual preferences, especially when artists, writers and thinkers were involved. Although Savonarola threatened to undermine this tolerance in the late 1400s, the status quo was swiftly restored with the first gay revolution in history. On August 13, 1512, the Compagnacci, a group of 30 or so nobles stormed the Florentine seat of power, demanding that all punishments ceased against the homosexual community. Just one month later, the Medici returned to Florence and approved the request. Tuscany’s historic openness is also revealed linguistically: the word for “homosexual” in Germanic countries at the time was Florenzen and the French referred to sodomy as le vice florentin (“the Florentine vice”).

Florence in 2021 is a place of phenomenal diversity, a meeting place for art lovers and culture connoisseurs from all backgrounds. With a population of world travelers, the Florentine atmosphere ensures that all visitors can truly be themselves. Florence was at the forefront of openness in 1974, opening Italy’s first gay bar, Tabasco, just steps from the Palazzo Vecchio. Although the bar’s no longer open, the city’s LGBTQ+ scene is alive and well with leading events, such as Florence Queer Festival, a celebration of queer culture through art, cinema, theatre and photography that’s held every September, regional pride parades every June and LGBTQ+ walking tours complete with lunch and wine tastings.

 Florence also has a plethora of associations, such as IREOS, which promotes acceptance of diversity through understanding, encouraging intercultural exchange among the city’s queer community and the rest of the city; Arcigay, which recently opened new headquarters in the Novoli area; and Azione Gay e Lesbica Firenze, a non-profit that’s been around for more than 30 years and helps to organize Toscana Pride. 

With all this past, it’s no wonder that Florence is popular for destination same-sex weddings. From stylish rooftops overlooking the cityscape to picturesque villas in the Tuscan countryside, saying yes is both the next chapter in your relationship and in Florence’s endless, all-embracing history.

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