Tuscan tastes in historic surroundings

At the Guelfi e Ghibellini Restaurant at Relais Santa Croce Baglioni Hotels, the cuisine blends traditional local recipes and the modern touches of Executive Chef Niccolò de Riu. It’s hard to imagine a more striking space than the Music Room that once belonged to Marquis Baldinucci, the first owner of the 18th-century palace that now hosts refined private events with musical entertainment and theatre performances. One of the most popular amusements is currently the possibility to enjoy a private concert with a pianist and soprano, which pairs perfectly with a dinner cooked by the chef and a deep dive into the wooden trusses that hold up the ceiling in the music hall, an astonishing masterpiece based on Leonardo’s designs.

Tell us your background. Where do you come from and where have you worked in the past?
I started my career in 1996 and had the opportunity to work in several Michelin-starred restaurants and prestigious establishments. The places where I’ve worked the longest were Grand Hotel Luxury Collection (six years) and the last five years here helming the kitchen at Relais Santa Croce Baglioni Hotels.

For a chef, does working for an international luxury hotel place limitations on your creativity? Or does it help your originality?
Originality underpins everything, especially when you have to manage all the catering needs of a hotel. I feel lucky to work in a place that encourages you to create something memorable and unique every day.

Explain the cuisine at Relais Santa Croce and what diners can expect from your restaurant.
At Relais Santa Croce, you can expect modern creative cuisine based on very local ingredients, experimentation and sustainability.

Do you have a signature dish and how will the menu change as we move into the autumn?
I’ve created many different dishes over the years, but if I had to choose one it would be my duck tortelli in dolceforte (a sort of Renaissance sweet and savoury sauce) with Jerusalem artichoke prepared two ways and raspberry dust. With cooler weather on the way, I’ll add seasonal vegetables like artichokes, pumpkin and celeriac to the menu as well as two game dishes.

What culinary trends are you seeing among guests who are travelling to Italy in this post-pandemic time?
From what I’m seeing, many people have a renewed yearning to eat well and eat more original dishes and less quick bites.

Recipe

Valdarno lardaia pumpkin with blue cheese and spumante

90 g Carnaroli Acquerello rice
200 g lardaia pumpkin from the Valdarno
40 g blue goat’s cheese from Montecristo dairy
30 g 40-month Parmigiano Reggiano Riserva
20 g butter
150 ml Spumante Brut Toscano

Clean the pumpkin to obtain 200 g. Remove 50 g and cut into small cubes. Blanch for 2 minutes in salted boiling water and set aside to cool in ice water. Keep the cooking water to use for the rice. Saute a shallot in a little olive oil over low heat and add the remaining pumpkin, chopped coarsely. Add the water to cover, season with salt and cook until the pumpkin has broken down. Use a handheld blender to make a smooth puree.

Toast the rice in a small pan for 2 minutes over low heat without adding any oil. Turn up the heat, pour in 80 ml of the spumante and let it evaporate. Cook the rice for about 7 minutes, adding the pumpkin cooking water (or use vegetable broth). Stir in the pumpkin puree and add another 40 ml of spumante. Season with salt to taste. Add the pumpkin cubes 2 minutes before the end of the cooking time. Turn off the heat and stir in the butter, Parmesan, blue goat’s cheese and the remaining wine until creamy. Garnish with borage flowers and sprouts.